Official forecast

Low tide : 06:45/19:22

High tide : 00:45/13:03

programme : Owen Wright wins

vagues : 6-8ft+


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Surfline Official Forecast - Thursday, September 8th

Surfline Official Forecast - Thursday, September 8th

September 8, 2011 21:03:00

BRIEF OVERVIEW: Solid SE swell from Hurricane Katia is expected into early Friday. Katia swell will be fading through the second half of the day. Small scale surf is expected for the weekend.




SWELL/SURF:  6-8' (overhead-few feet overhead) SE Katia swell continues during the early part of the day. The surf will drop into the afternoon and into the evening as Katia races off into the Atlantic.


WIND/WEATHER: N winds 7-10kts, bending NW/WNW into the PM. Winds will rotate WSW by the end of the day. Mostly sunny as the weather stabilizes.




SWELL/SURF: Easing 1-2' (knee-thigh high) SE/ESE swell. Possible waist high sets early better spots.


WIND/WEATHER:  Light N becoming E winds 3-5kts. Winds may increase a touch in the PM.




SWELL/SURF: 1-2' E/SE background swell/E windswell mix.


WIND/WEATHER: E winds 8-13kts.




SWELL/SURF: 1-2-3' SE background swell/leftover E windswell mix.




SWELL/SURF: 2-3'+ SE swell but dependent on strength/track of Maria.


WIND/WEATHER: WSW 4-7kts becoming SW 8-13kts in the PM.


The weather clears up Friday as Katia races off into the Atlantic. High pressure builds in over the weekend.

As of 11am hurricane Katia is located at 33.6N and 70.1W with sustained winds of 80kts with gusts to 100kts. Movement is to the N 14kts. Katia has begun to pick up forward speed with an expected NE turn overnight. Katia will become caught up in the mid latitude westerlies and quickly escorted NE out to sea on Friday through the weekend.

Tropical Storm Maria currently located well out in the Atlantic at 13.0N 41.2W. Maria remains a weak system with winds of 40kts tracking W 19kts. Maria looks poor on current satellite observations and it is possible that this system will weaken back into a depression or wave. Regardless we will monitor this as it approaches the western Atlantic.

Fairly solid SE swell continues into early morning Friday. The peak of the swell looks to occur overnight Thursday/early Friday morning. Although still solid early Friday, we will see the swell on a fading trend through the PM Friday with small residual leftovers on tap for Saturday.

Looking further out, we are expecting only minor SE background swell/local windswell mix on Sunday into Monday. Our attention for next week will turn towards Tropical Storm Maria that is currently located well out in the eastern Atlantic. Maria is not expected to strengthen significantly over the next couple of days.


Next Update: Friday afternoon, September 9th if necessary